OMAR GARCÍA CERVANTES, an aspiring novelist, was brought up in the state of Veracruz but moved to Mexico City 16 years ago. As a gay man, he is happier there than anywhere else. Mexico City has grown only more welcoming since he moved there. In November last year the mayor, Miguel Ángel Mancera, signed a declaration proclaiming its gay-friendliness. Gay marriage has been legal in the city since 2010; under a law passed in 2014, people can change their legal sex simply by applying to alter their birth records. Hate crimes against gays are almost unheard of, says Alejandro Brito of Letra S, a gay-rights activist group.
Outside the city, the climate is more forbidding. Fans of the national football team are wont to shout “puto” (“faggot”) at opposing goalkeepers. The Catholic church, the spiritual home of 80% of Mexicans, continues to denounce gay marriage as a threat to families. Its influence is especially strong in states north-west of the capital. A demonstration last year against gay marriage in Guadalajara, the second-largest city, attracted more than 50,000...Continue reading
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